Walking through time: the heritage that is Vigan
Published in the May 15, 2008 edition of Manila Bulletin Travel and Tourism section
How does one define timelessness?
That question is most often reserved for those who are defiant in the workings of father time. These are the individuals or things that surpass their own and transcend to a new generation. To be labeled timeless is to exist on a plane that is eternally preserved in the eyes of many and will continue to remain the same in the eyes of their heirs. They come in many forms, and to this day they are still remembered because they remain to be an integral part of history.
Again, how does one define timelessness? That question attacked me when I stepped on the cobblestone road. "The Heritage City", as it was claimed to be, came at me from all sides, all that came into view had a piece of history, the kind that reminded you of a different time.
There they were, the buildings, the houses, the churches, everything that would answer the aforementioned question was right in front of me. Everything that Vigan displays embody what is perpetual.
The virtual time machine
The common idea is that most of the houses and buildings here are centuries old, their churches as well. However, to say that it's only a preserved old town is an understatement. Some, if not all the landmarks in Vigan have a story to tell.
One of them would be Plaza Burgos in the city capital. Honoring the martyr priest, Jose Burgos, this was created in commemoration of his efforts in the Spanish revolution.
Not far from the plaza is the home of renowned poetess Leona Florentino, the mother of Philippine women's literature. The woman responsible for opening the doors of literature for women artists resides in the house beside the Vigan Cathedral. The house also cradled 14 children; one of them was Isabelo Delos Reyes. This writer and activist would be the founder of the Aglipayan Church and the forerunners of Filipino socialism.
A monument commemorating Florentino can be found beside her home, which is now converted into a restaurant in honor of her name.
From the home of a pioneer, just a few meters away is a place where a president who served the second longest term in history took his refuge. The Syquia Mansion, home to Elpidio Quirino's wife, is considered by biguñeos to be the first Malacañang of the north, partly because he was the first president to hold a cabinet meeting in the Mansion. Today, the mansion displays the life and the times of the Syquias, from their early life as a noble family to the dawning of the new generation, some of the furniture is still well preserved.
The house remains functional and is frequently visited by Quirino's granddaughter, Cory who resides in the mansion to celebrate the president's birthday.
The Vigan Cathedral on the other hand is very much known as one of the oldest cathedrals in the country and was ordered to be built by Juan de Salcedo, the founder of Villa Fernandina, an earlier name for the city. The cathedral also displays its heavy Chinese influence with the presence of the Fu dogs found above its outermost doors. It also has a museum containing several documents from the church, including marriage licenses. The cathedral is also the resting place of some of the priests who have served the diocese.
Preservation is Key
Biqueños take pride in their heritage, and who can blame them, to be blessed with such is but a blessing that the tradition should be preserved for every succeeding generation. It is in this virtue that they celebrate the Viva Vigan festival. Highlighted by Binatbatan dancing, Kalesa Parades, and the Karbo Festival. The festival makes the visitors revel in the historic ambiance of the city.
A notable highlight of the festival is the Vigan Amazing Heritage Race. Now in its second year, it aims to promote and enrich the heritage of the city by introducing the participants to the notable activities and landmarks that defined their history and culture. Derived from the popular reality show, the race puts the contestants to various activities like playing syato (a local children's pastime), weaving an abel (woven textiles), going through the Syquia mansion among many others while learning more about the roots of Vigan, thus instilling the importance of history to its people.
To millennia and beyond
Aside from the festivals, one of the most important things to consider is the physical restoration of the city and its ancestral houses, which the local government and the Department of Tourism, consider one of their main priorities.
According to Martin Valera, director for Region 1 for DOT, restoring the houses alone could not support the heritage village. "To preserve the heritage sites in Vigan, some of the ancestral houses are for rent or sold to business, other houses have been made business establishments not only for profit but also to make the heritage village more accessible to tourists," he said. Not to veer away from the look of the place, franchises were committed to following the design of the ancestral houses. In this light, the city has made another evolution and with the changing of time, it has found new life.
The houses that were converted into hotels will make any tourist feel that he/she is a Don or a Doña living a life of prominence. Go to any souvenir shop and imagine a Chinese trader persuading you to purchase. You can also dine in the local restaurants and dine with nobility.
Perhaps this is one factor that makes Vigan withstand the workings of time, its ability to stand its ground and live in the world progressing. Perhaps that is the answer to why Vigan continues to be timeless, the way the people look back and cherish the heritage and the history will be among its gifts to the world.
